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Stair Configuration Options Ignore the deck size and shape here and simply think about the stairs you need. Consider the pros and cons for your yard and window situation. Use your mouse on the stair set shown above to determine how many steps you'll need. Then build it below; you can zoom, print, and reset by right clicking (PC) or using your menu bar (Mac). |
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1st Question:
do you really need stairs? |
Getting from Above to Below
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costs nothing. leaves more deck area usable. | can't get to the ground, maybe? |
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BEST VALUE:
least expensive way to get stairs. opens view to yard somewhat. |
lands farther from house, not too exciting. |
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BEST VALUE:
requires just one more joist . less traffic zone, close to patio door, lands close to house. (rail installed both sides) |
often there are windows in the way, or does not land near the walkout access below. |
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BEST VALUE:
landing attached offers more space, can be set a step or two lower, and directs traffic to a good spot below. |
this is actually another little deck attached, so its more railing, deck, posts; thus, more costs. one more post underneath may be a factor also. |
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BEST VALUE:
solves problem of windows in the way of staircase, requires no additional support post. nice spot to land. looks more interesting. |
may clash with straight lines if you have a boxy house. slight pinching effect at the far corner of stair top. if you get a gate, it may not swing fully open. |
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often is ideal spot for landing to access patio below. not as costly as an "L" shaped staircase. preserves yard space. might help enclose patio below. | requires two more support posts. not symetrical in view. takes nearly 20 ft of run to make on full walkout basements, thus may run past deck. might block basement patio door view. |
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u-turn aspect of it makes it great for patios below. breaks up long flights. room for plants or bench. may be possible on two support posts. | basement window may be a problem for this design. must project far enough as to create overhead clearance. |
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breaks up long runs from high decks. lands closer to the house. looks interesting. | requires 4 more support posts. takes up lots of yard space. must check city code for rear setbacks. |
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lands nicely for patio below, requires no more posts than 4 x4 landing of 90 degree landings. | only appropriate for full story decks. must project out far enough to create overhead clearance. |
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more
sturdy than free-standing deck, uses house for ledger instead of posts
on house side. compact footprint means more yard is preserved as
open.
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basement window may make this impossible or less favorable. must check city code for sideyard setbacks. |
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an element often used in more complex-shaped decks, diagonal stairs look interesting, lessens distance from house at landing. | stair on outside edge requires another support post below. cuts off 8 square feet of deck that you still pay for. |
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popular plan for patios underneath. lands close, low traffic zones, compact footprint, breaks up accent. First step may be lower for long runs. |
more expensive per square foot because of the two landings required. Only possible on one-story high decks. |
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lands nicely for patio below, breaks up long runs on high decks. | not feasible for low decks. 6 extra posts required. |
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other options include steps between levels, wrap-around stairs on low corners, and stairs with more than 11" tread | decks that are more than 30" high at a point that is 5 feet from the deck require guardrail. |